The custom auxiliary fuel tank project for our 2017 Ram/Cummins 2500 is underway! June 2019 I added two additional aluminum toolboxes aft-axle on my Hallmark Nevada Hillsboro flatbed camper outfit. My idea was to eventually remove one of the large, 30-inch-long front boxes and replace it with a fuel tank, preferably a commercially available aluminum saddle tank for a medium-duty truck.
The tank project was moved to the back burner and a year passed quickly. For a while I considered a much smaller 10 or 12-gallon tank, hoping to fit one under the chassis between the frame rails, and in front of the spare tire. Just 100 miles of additional range would be a game changer during long highway trips.
Evan a commercially available tank would have required custom mounts and modifications, and surely some compromises. After discussing the project with Chris at High Sierra Fabrication several weeks ago, we decided on a custom tank for my original under-bed location. The goal was to fabricate a tank that looks extremely similar to the toolbox that was removed, and the matching 30-inch box still on the passenger-side.
Custom costs more, takes time, and is never snag-free, but if you have the right business and people involved, the results can be fantastic.
A beautiful tank was constructed using 3/16-inch diamond plate aluminum. Then High Sierra Fabrication proceeded to drill and cut holes in the box, weld-in fittings, a sump, and clean-out port, etc. We are getting close, but still working on it.
After High Sierra Fabrication completes most of installation, I will still need to plumb and wire the external pump to transfer the auxiliary fuel into the 2017 Ram’s factory tank.
Spacious interior of the Hallmark Nevada flatbed camper. What amenities does it have? Essentially everything, including a toilet, shower, large Nova Kool refrigerator with separate freezer, and 50+ gallons of water.
James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler. All Rights Reserved
On Dec. 23, 2019, I installed the firmer Timbren Industries single-convoluted springs, replacing the DR2500D double spring I ran for six months. I needed to reuse the bracket from the double-spring kit because there was a packaging mistake with my order.
However the springs, mounting brackets, and included Timbren spacers are interchangeable, just the spring mounts are different heights for this application. Received the correct and taller DRTT3500E mounting bracket and did the R&R. Without a 1-inch spacer the new setup is 3/4-inch taller overall.
Slides: 1) Shows the new set up on the left and what I’ve been running for three weeks on the right. 2) What I was running installed 3) What I’m running now, which is the traditional DRTT3500E spring mount/kit, without the optional spacer.
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James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler. All Rights Reserved
The questions and answers below were prompted by recent posts regarding auxiliary springs for my truck camper outfit.
Backgrounder
Iggy The Igloo asked about heavy-duty suspension setup and options. Iggy has a Fourth Generation Ram 3500 crew cab, long bed, with a flatbed Alaskan popup. His truck had Firestone air springs, including Daystar cradles to prevent limiting droop-travel, but he did not like how the airbags consumed inches of up-travel. His front axle has Thuren Fab 1.5-inch replacement coils.
Questions, Answers, and Comments
Q] Do you leave your camper mounted full-time?
A] The chassis is always loaded with my Hallmark flatbed camper, tools, and gear. I will remove the Hallmark occasionally to inspect things, but have not done so yet.
2014-and-newer Ram 2500s (like mine) have coils in the rear, so I couldn’t install extra leaf springs (add-a-leaf). My assessment from owning two coil-sprung, late-model Ram 2500s is that the OE rear coils work surprisingly well, even with maximum loads. However, for a big camper it seems nearly everyone (2500 & 3500, F250 & F350) wants or needs additional spring-rate for better all-around performance. Regardless of whether one uses air, rubber, or metal auxiliary springs, the goal is to support the load.
Excessive rear-overhang and tail-swing is popular these days… most of the camper is behind the rear axle. This nice FWC flatbed on a Ram 3500 was at Overland Expo West 2019.F-350/3500 pickups are arguably superior to F-250/2500 series trucks for maximum loads, yet this Ram 3500 with a massive aftermarket rear leaf-spring pack still employs auxiliary air springs for support.
If new or additional springs were not desirable for big weight, then those who rarely fill their trucks to capacity would complain loudly about heavy-duty pickup ride-quality. New trucks generally offer a more comfortable and softer ride these days, both with and without a load, though sometimes this includes compromises for heavy-hauling.
These good Old Man Emu/ARB Dakar springs were obviously flattened by a FWC Raven slide-in camper on a 2011 Toyota Tundra. Auxiliary support was added.
Replacement springs? Add-ons? Both?
Q] Why did you choose Timbren springs instead of an add-a-leaf?
A] My 2017 Ram 2500 uses something similar to an add-a-leaf in the form of beefier aftermarket rear coils from TufTruck. They were helpful, though they’re only designed for an additional 500-pounds. This is not enough, and I’m trying to convince TufTruck to make new coils with substantially more capacity.
The latest single-convoluted Timbrens and my other modifications (aftermarket sway/body-roll bars, shocks, and stout tires) have helped my flatbed outfit drive and handle impressively well for its size, weight, and height.
Aftermarket air springs seem to be the most common heavy-duty suspension upgrade, likely due to their cost, adjustability, and ease of installation. I’ve used air before, though some negatives can include leaks, failure in extreme cold temperatures, and a bouncy ride. Some choose replacement leaf packs, but if the weight is removed the extreme-duty replacements can be too stiff for an unladen truck.
Butt Sag
Q] How have your Timbrens changed the sag? Did the springs put you back up to stock ride height with your load, or do you still have some sag?
A] Neither my 2014 crew cab, which used to carry a Hallmark slide-in, nor my 2017 regular cab flatbed, has ever had a sagging, negative-rake stance. This was largely because I didn’t lift or level the front first. This is the opposite approach of many these days.
For my ’17 Ram 2500, I added the Hallmark Nevada flatbed, gear and other heavy accessories, while experimenting with auxiliary rear suspension options. Lighter-duty Air Lift 1000 springs inside the rear coils were used initially, then TufTruck replacement springs, and now the rubber Timbrens.
Butt low, negative rake stance was avoided by sorting rear load support first. This is after adding TufTruck TTC-1224 HD front (lift) springs.
While I respect companies like Thuren Fab and think their products are great, their parts are focused on a softer ride and/or going fast over rough terrain. Softer springs don’t add load support, and that’s typically the wrong direction for heavy, overland-style, backcountry camper outfits. There are numerous examples online of folks choosing to use softer go-fast springs (particularly on the rear axle) who after installation needed them to be reengineered or replaced because they were inappropriate for their load.
To their credit, I called and talked to Thuren Fab several months ago when shopping for front coils; I shared my measured axle weights and application specifics. They were direct and honest, stating that their front springs would not give the listed lift due to the weight on my front axle (winch bumper, camper, etc.), and they did not try to talk me out of using the higher-rate TufTrucks I was considering. They agreed that firmer springs were a good idea. As mentioned above, in many cases I think the rear springs from the go-faster companies are even less desirable than the fronts for heavy-duty applications; they’re not intended for the load support that heavy outfits need.
Only using products that added spring rate to the rear suspension helped me retain some of the factory-positive rake with my camper. I dislike a butt-low, negative rake. The front remained lower than the rear until I changed the front springs.
TufTruck’s heavy-duty front coils were installed May 2019. The TufTruck TTC-1224 gave me about 2.75-inches of lift, essentially leveling the chassis. Since adding the TTC-1224 I have been playing with the ride height, keeping the chassis either slightly higher in the rear, or level, depending on how I choose to adjust the rear suspension.
TufTruck TTC-1224 HD front coils for Ram 2500/3500s were installed above the front axle, providing both load support and inches of lift.
Compression Travel Loses?
Q] Do you think the Timbren’s inhibit your up-travel more than an add-a-leaf?
A] I have not tried to measure or document up-travel loses; supporting the load and overall handing has been the priority, while not limiting droop-travel. Coil-sprung axles have inherently better droop-travel, but they are generally inferior to leaf springs at controlling body-roll.
Air Lift plastic spring spacer (for lifted rear) droop-travel failure on 2011 Toyota Tundra. This prompted me to use Timbren rubber springs instead of traditional air springs for the FWC load.
In addition to firmer springs, my aftermarket heavy-duty sway/roll-bars limit travel; their performance benefits far outweigh any losses. While I enjoy superior off-pavement performance, I’m realistic about my outfit’s capabilities in the dirt. An empty full-size pickup can do much more, easily and safely, than one with a higher center-of-gravity that’s carrying tons of payload.
As an aside, I am not critical of your adding lift/leveling blocks in the rear. Near the end of my 2011 Tundra project with a Four Wheel Campers slide-in, I placed two-inch blocks under the rear springs and it was fine, loaded and not. Taller or different blocks don’t always cause axle-wrap or other problems.
Small, two-inch block added to the rear of a 2011 Tundra. There was not one before.
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James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler. All Rights Reserved
