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Tesche Ridge Blade X/RT Review

Introducing Tesche Tire USA

Tesche Tire is a Chinese company founded in Hong Kong in 2013, with additional development, manufacturing, testing, distribution, and marketing offices in California, USA, and Bangkok, Thailand. In early 2025, Tesche (pronounced tesh) started importing tires into the USA, establishing distributor and dealer networks with the goal of becoming a high-quality yet budget-priced brand in the competitive American market. Tesche has a few light-truck designs for the Turbo Diesel Register audience, including the tread that caught my eye at the 2024 SEMA Show.

Ridge Blade X/RT

The Tesche Ridge Blade X/RT (Extreme Rugged Terrain) is a high-void, four-rib tire advertised as designed and engineered in the USA, made in Thailand. Like most similar designs, the upper sidewall has thick tread for additional traction and to prevent punctures. One side has raised black lettering with an inset tread pattern, the other has thick, solid raised black letters. They have 3-ply sidewalls and many of the blocks are linked to prevent tread squirm and reduce wear. There are stone and mud ejectors, a little siping, and some lugs are conveniently marked with 75%, 50%, and 25% to show the tread depth remaining.  

Tesche Ridge Blade X/RT 35X12.50R20LT.
Mud and stone ejectors, stepped tread blocks, and bars linking the lugs are premium features included on the Tesche X/RT.
75%, 50%, and 25% tread depths are modeled into a few lugs.

Why A Rugged Terrain

Whether you call them rugged terrains (the newest, most popular moniker), a commercial traction, aggressive all-terrain, or hybrid design, any relatively high-void and stoutly-constructed traction tire that’s quieter than a mudder probably qualifies. Think bigger tread blocks and more space between the lugs than the ever-popular BF Goodrich All-Terrain. Of course, there are always trade-offs. Rugged terrains will be louder than highway or all-seasons, potentially have a rougher ride because of their heavy-duty construction and/or larger lugs slapping the tarmac, and generally won’t last as long.

Sizes And Specifications

Tesche’s brochure offers dozens of X/RT sizes for wheels from 15 inches all the way up to 28 inches in diameter. The majority are for the most popular 17-inch, 18-inch, and 20-inch sizes, and all are listed as having 18/32-inch of tread (keep reading). From the limited options available from the initial shipping containers hitting the Southern California docks in early 2025, I chose the 35X12.50R20LT for this evaluation. 

In this 35-inch size, the X/RT is 34.57-inches tall, 12.28-inches wide, with the aforementioned 18/32-inch depth, while touting a load-range-F, 12-ply rating. Light-truck load-range-F tires in this size should have a load index of 125 and be rated to handle 3,640 pounds at 80 psi. However, based on the sidewalls the set I received only have a 121 load index, which according to Tire and Rim Association standards are rated for just 3,195 pounds at 80 psi. 

34.6-inches tall.
Tread width is about 11-inches, overall/section width is 12.3-inches.

When I asked Tesche about these inconsistencies they assured me that these made-in-Thailand X/RT actually meet the load-range-F specifications, and the discrepancies were due to importation and tariff challenges. It is possible that many consumers would not catch this, or may not care when buying less expensive rubber. However, I informed them that some enthusiast definitely would care, and that all the published ratings and sidewall data should be consistent and accurate. 

Load index of 121 and maximum capacity of 3,195-pounds at 80 psi are not correct for load range F, 12-ply, 35×12.50R20 tires.

Additionally, although the tread depth is listed as 18/32”, I measured approximately 17.5/32”. Tesche stated the advertised depth was a conversion from 14 mm, approximately 17.5/32”, and they rounded up to 18/32”. My suggestion was that they be as precise as possible, and gave them an example of a specific Toyo C/T size that has an advertised depth of 18.4/32”, which is accurate. Tesche deserves much credit and respect for being genuinely receptive to my input and critique. 

Tread depth measured approximately 17.5/32” (14mm) when new, not the published 18/32”.

Siping depth is quite shallow, about 6/32”, which means that when the tread has worn down to about 11/32” the siping will disappear. Plenty of designs do not have full-depth siping, or any siping at all if they are a high-void mudder. However, many rugged terrains do have much deeper sipes, which is generally preferred because the additional gripping edges can significantly increase traction on slippery surfaces. The location, depth, or shape of sipes can increase the odds of rubber being cut or torn more easily, so as always there are tradeoffs. 

Sipes are only 6/32” deep.

To round out my constructive criticism, like other overseas companies Tesche’s promotional material translations leave much to be desired. Their slogans, naming, and phrasing makes for interesting reading. These criticisms aside, I do like the Ridge Blade X/RT, their quality and overall performance has been impressive… dare I say as good as most known brands! 

Sidebar – Less Expensive Offshore Tires Found At SEMA

In addition to the numerous mainstream tire companies familiar to enthusiasts, there are always a plethora of unknown overseas manufacturers at the SEMA Show. Many offer huge commercial, agricultural, or mining application products, but there are plenty with light-truck offerings as well. 

There are always a few interesting tread patterns that catch my eye, some are blatant copies, but others are different and interesting, and one would think it would be easy for a journalist to strike up a conversation to potentially source a set for an article. However, my experience has been exactly the opposite.  

Either there is such a language barrier that just initiating a conversation is a significant hurdle, or the company is not really trying to have their products reviewed for the North American consumer market. That may sound strange but SEMA is less about journalists and more about potential importers and buyers. When I walked up to the Tesche booth they became the first enthusiastically engaging offshore tire manufacturer I have spoken with.  

Will, a Chinese gentleman with a good command of English, was excited when I showed him a copy of my Still Plays With Trucks column in Turbo Diesel Register 126, which contained a detailed evaluation of the LT255/85R17 Mickey Thompson Baja A/T. He said “that is exactly the type of review we want”, as they were just preparing to enter the US market in 2025. Tesche promised me a set as soon as they hit the Southern California docks, and they followed through in January 2025. 

—————–

Snag Getting Them Mounted

Most 12.5-inch-wide flotation sizes are supposed to be mounted on rims that are at least 8.5-inches wide, so stock 8-inch wheels are technically too narrow. Tesche lists the X/RT in a 35×11.50R20 that I would have preferred, and also would fit perfectly on an 8-inch rim, but they were not yet available. Buying new wheels solely for this evaluation was a deal-breaker, so just like for previous articles I chose to squeeze them onto a set of 8-inch-wide OEM rims. 

Many shops won’t notice rims that are a little too narrow, or they might not care. However, Discount Tire is a stickler and refused to mount and balance the 35×12.50R20 on 8-inch rims. Another store just down the street didn’t balk, and there was a silver lining to this minor hurdle. 

Mounted on narrow 8-inch-wide wide OEM wheels with lots of backspacing, a fairly wide 12.5-inch-wide tire doesn’t stick out too far. Here they are just barely covered in the front by the Buckstop bumper, and in the rear by Mopar mudflaps.

This shop was not willing to use the static, single plane balancing method that I generally prefer, which puts less weight on the wheels. For 35-inch and taller rubber they insist on using the dynamic, dual plane method (they are likely trying to avoid customer complaints and comebacks). Dynamic balancing is theoretically the best method because it corrects for both vertical and horizontal imbalances, but if done poorly an excessive amount of weight can be added. Dynamically balancing the X/RT showed how impressively little weight was needed; the quality and trueness of this set might not have been so obvious if static balancing had been used. Unfortunately, I was not able to get the road force information, which can be another helpful metric of overall quality. However, my on-truck assessment of my set of Tesche X/RT tells me they do not have excessive road force. 

Impressive Balancing Results

When it comes to balancing a tire mounted on a wheel, often it’s the wheel that is more out of balance than the tire, so much of the weight needed is because of the wheel. Larger rims are heavier, and therefore often require more weight than a smaller rims. 

The 67-pound X/RT tires were mounted on 40-pound OEM aluminum Ram 20″ wheels. All four required minimal weight to balance, the most being just 5.25 ounces. The average for all four 107-pound assemblies was 4.4 ounces; impressive! This caused me to question if the technician had balanced them properly, but my concern disappeared after rolling down the highway at speed.

Tire Number, Weight Outer, Weight Inner

#1)  4.5 oz. / None 

#2)  2.75 oz. / 1.00 oz. 

#3)  3.50 oz. / 0.75 oz. 

#4)  4.25 oz. / 1.00 oz. 

35X12.50R20LT Tesche Ridge Blade X/RT mounted on 20” Ram OEM aluminum wheels weigh 107 pounds.
Impressively little weight was needed to dynamically balance the Ridge Blade X/RT tires!

Tracking And Handling

With 55 psi in the fronts and 35 psi in the rears steering response was good and there was noticeably less body roll. Ride quality was slightly firmer than the bigger tires I removed due to the 0.8-inch shorter diameter. (For a given tire diameter, taller wheels yield shorter sidewalls, which reduces sidewall flex, roll, and typically improves responsiveness at the expense of a firmer ride.) Centramatic balancers certainly help, but the X/RT were obviously balanced well, as they remained smooth well above the limit on Interstate 80 in rural Nevada. 

Straight line tracking and stability can be greatly affected by the surface, road crown, vehicle alignment settings, and modifications. That disclaimer aside, tracking with the X/RT was phenomenal on my 2014 Ram.  My preferred baseline standard is to have at least several seconds (6 – 10) of look mom no hands driving on a smooth, flat, and straight roadway before needing to steer my drifting truck back to the center of my lane. The Ridge Blade easily surpassed that standard multiple times, including one run that lasted 25 seconds!

Nice looking sidewall with raised black letters, with a massive Centramatic Wheel Balancer that just fits behind the big 20” wheel. Smaller balancers are needed for smaller wheels.
Smooth at an indicated 85 mph. If you think those pressures are too low for an unloaded pickup, please consult the Tire And Rim Association load inflation charts.

Overall Traction And Performance

Like all the tires I evaluate, the X/RT saw lots fast freeway driving, local commuting, a decent amount of snow/slush, very little mud (winter slush can be similar, and they cleaned themselves appropriately), hundreds of fast and slow 4WD off-pavement miles, and a bit of light trailer towing. They seemed to perform well on all surfaces and I never felt they lacked grip or were sub par. All designs will pickup rocks when off-pavement, the size of which directly correlates to the space between the lugs and the road surface, usually throwing them once back on-pavement at highway speeds. The Ridge Blade X/RT didn’t seem to pickup, hold, or throw as many stones as some competitors. Surprisingly, I could not find any cutting, chipping, or tearing of the tread or sidewalls from the off-road driving. 

Tesche X/RT in some rugged terrain, under my 2017 Ram with Hallmark flatbed camper, plus much armor, tools, and accessories, with a gross weight of 12,000 pounds.
The X/RT didn’t seem to hold or throw quite as many pebbles as some similar designs, but picking up rocks off-pavement is inevitable.

Wear Data

In January 2025, the Ridge Blade X/RT were mounted on my 2014 crew cab 2500, and after two rotations I had quickly logged 5,000 miles. They were performing so well and consistently under that heavily-armored (9,000-lb. wet/empty), manual transmission Cummins Turbo Diesel, that I decided to give them a chance to prove themselves working even harder during a spring road trip under my 2017 regular cab with Hallmark flatbed camper. 

This added another 1,850 miles under that RV, which typically has about 5,500-pounds on the front axle and 6,500-pounds on the rear. The X/RT performed just as well under the camper as on my crew cab. After that trip they were swapped back onto the 2014 to reach 7,000 miles of total use. 

Quality aftermarket tires on my trucks often yield approximately 2,000 to 2,200 miles for each thirty-second of rubber, so better than that is noteworthy. Accurately measuring down to 1/32” can be challenging, however, two gauges indicated the X/RT were down just 2.5/32”. That equals an exceptional 2,800 miles per 1/32” of tread! Not the best I have ever seen, but close and definitely outstanding. 

Even if I am pessimistic and say that my measurements are off by 0.5/32” (1/64”), and they wore 3/32”, that would be 2,300 miles per 1/32”, and still above average. 

Showing little wear during a rotation.

Sidebar-Tire Reviews Will Always Be Popular

Why are tires such a popular topic for both enthusiasts and regular consumers, maybe more popular than oil? From my perspective the answer is simple, and like most things it boils down to our wallets. Although modern tires are generally well-made, high-quality, a good value, and can last much longer than designs from 30 to 50 years ago, they are still a fairly expensive recurring maintenance cost. How about a real-world comparison? 

Changing the engine oil in a modern Cummins Turbo Diesel at the maximum recommended 15,000-mile interval should cost about $100 for the filter and three gallons of premium oil if we do it ourselves. Do that three times to cover 45,000 miles and we’ve spent $300. Let’s use that same 45,000 miles as a theoretical average for putting new rubber on a heavy-duty pickup. 

Depending on the size, manufacturer, and retailer, many modern pickup tires can cost approximately $300 each, including the stock LT275/70R18E. Four at $300, plus balancing (mounting is generally included), and my local 8.26% sales tax would total $1,400. That’s 4.6 times more than the cost of oil changes to cover the same 45,000 miles. (This reinforces the mantra that oil is in fact relatively inexpensive, and that we should change it at optimal intervals, without being penny wise and pound foolish.) Fourteen-hundred dollars is an expenditure that requires consideration, and if you like taller sizes (tires or wheels) you will likely pay much more. 

Just before my article deadline my friend Tony from Colorado called for a new rubber recommendation, commenting that “tires are a much bigger investment these days”. In 2017, Tony and I trekked up to the Canadian Arctic to drive the infamous ice road before the new year-round replacement was completed. Before that Arctic adventure Tony had purchased a set of Toyo C/T based on my recommendation. Our conversation was long, detailed, and multifaceted, and he was extremely close to choosing the C/T again. That was until I added that the Yokohama Geolander A/T XD I had bought recently appeared to have similar traction and wear characteristics to the C/T, while being slightly quieter at higher freeway speeds. Less road noise was appealing so Tony decided to try the A/T XD, and he is happy with that decision. 

——————- 

How Much Road Noise?

Evaluated through my ears inside my Fourth Generation Tradesman, the noise was about what you’d expect when you look at the fairly aggressive design. The X/RT is not the quietest in the segment — that title currently goes to the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T, which does have a tighter tread pattern — nor is the X/RT likely the loudest. 

In back-to-back testing over the same roadways the Tesche X/RT have a similar overall volume to the Toyo C/T (still love and have a set), or the Cooper Discoverer S/T MAXX (run them on our 4Runner), however, the X/RT have a slightly higher pitch tone. The Ridge Blade X/RT also have a bit more void in the center, which has a large effect on perceived noise. 

Like most designs the Ridge Blade X/RT is loudest on concrete freeway, and the volume of the singing increases with speed, particularly above 75 mph. It’s also important to remember that wider sizes, that put more rubber on the ground, are generally louder than narrower sizes.

Modern traction designs are relatively tame, but if you really want quiet get a highway rib tread. If you want the best traction in sloppy conditions and don’t care about the noise, then get a mudder. Anything between those two extremes will have traction or noise compromises, and perceptions and opinions are always subjective. Filtered through my less than perfect hearing, the X/RT are slightly loud for a modern rugged terrain, but they also offer more void than some competitors. If you are sensitive to road noise the X/RT might not be right for you (or maybe any rugged terrain). If you want or need the traction and don’t mind them singing a little while you’re rockin’ down the highway, they are a good choice. 

Effective tread design with a good looking sidewall on the Ridge Blade X/RT. Budget price makes them even more attractive.
Tesche Ridge Blade X/RT proved reliable and trustworthy under both my 2014 Ram crew cab and 2017 Ram regular cab flatbed camper, and I would not hesitate to run them again.

Good Value

Many major purchases boil down to the bottom line… how much do they cost. Tesche is so new to the US market that I actually delayed this review a few months because retail pricing was not yet available. 

As of August 2025, the minimum advertised price (MAP) for the 35×12.50R20 Ridge Blade X/RT I tested was $368 each. When you consider that the street price can be substantially less than MAP, they immediately become even more attractive. 

Online vendor PriorityTire.com had the 35×12.50R20 X/RT on their website for $304. Tires-Easy.com had them for $287 after adding FET (Federal excise tax), and shipping was free from both outlets. Tires-Easy.com also had the late-model heavy-duty Ram stock size, the LT275/70R18, for a mere $199 (no FET), which is much less than average for that size. 

Of course my sample size was just one set, but the four I ran exhibited no flaws or quirks, and performed as well as any mainstream brand in recent memory. Tesche is definitely a good option for the price conscious consumer. 

Tell ‘em you saw it on RoadTraveler.net!

Copyright J. Langan/RoadTraveler. All Rights Reserved

This article was also published in the Turbo Diesel Register magazine. 

Resource:

Tesche Tire USA: www.teschetire.com 

 

 

 

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WAGAN TECH DC TO DC BATTERY CHARGER

 

40A DC TO DC BATTERY CHARGER

Wagan Tech’s 40 Amp DC to DC Charger 

It takes some type of fuel or energy to power things, this includes humans as without food (and other necessities) our systems will shut down. In the case of our beloved Cummins-powered trucks, that energy comes from burning #2 diesel fuel. The primary output of the internal combustion is propulsion of the drivetrain; however, supporting systems give and take from the consumption, including the cooling and electrical charging systems. 

Some readers know that the simple diesels from decades past would essentially run forever once started as long as the fuel flowed. They could be hard to cold-start, but they were also difficult to stop. This is because all diesels are ignited using compression ignition (CI), not a spark-ignition (SI) system like a traditional gasoline motor. Diesels are less complex without spark plugs, a coil, distributor cap and rotor, or wires, and while still fundamentally true there are modern complexities, chiefly the electronic fuel-injection. 

Mandatory Electricity 

Our newer, specialized, computer-controlled diesels need their modules to remain awake for everything to work properly (just like gas-powered trucks). Additionally, late-model vehicles are chock-full of countless electronic gizmos, from computer screens, cameras, seat and steering-wheel heaters, and the list goes on. The constant generation of electrical current from an alternator is no longer optional to keep the oil burning, but absolutely essential, even for daylight driving, because battery storage capacity is finite and amps consumed must be replaced.  

High-output alternators easily handle the load of the Cummins cold-start grid heater, or the glow plugs in other automotive diesels, plus the increasingly popular factory-installed inverters that convert the DC current to 120-volt AC to power tools or other plug-in devices. But what about additional intermittent or constant 12-volt DC electrical loads? 

Remote National Forest camping in Colorado. One only has what they bring with them.

RV Amps  

The TDR readership has always included a large percentage of RVers, and because we love our pickups so much, that means mostly travel trailers, big fifth-wheels, or truck campers instead of motorhomes. Solar panels atop an RV to charge coach batteries have been common for several years, as are backup generators to energize power-hungry AC appliances like microwaves and air-conditioners when shore power isn’t available. The solar panels require sunshine, and internal-combustion generators require fuel, so additional free amperage sources are welcomed. 

When an RV is connected to a truck via the 7-way trailer-towing outlet, typically a small amount of juice is delivered to the RV to help charge the coach batteries, often somewhere around 10-amps. The limitation is not alternator capability, but the size of the factory wiring. This small amount of amperage can help keep charged batteries topped if there are minimal loads; however running high-draw devices can lead to deficits. 

Modern Electric-Only Refrigerators

Like modern trucks full of gadgetry, newer RVs can have unprecedented amperage draws as well. The easiest example comes from the overlanding culture where electric refrigerators pioneered the replacement of traditional RV refrigerators, which principally ran on propane or 120 volts AC when plugged-in. Some older RV refers were theoretically capable of running on 12 V-volts, but they were terribly inefficient and would drain batteries fast.

Instead of using the gas absorption method of cooling with propane, modern 12-volt refrigerators have a compressor, similar to the refrigerators in our homes. These can be built-in units, as in my Hallmark Camper, or a portable chest type refrigerator/freezer. These electric refrigerators are generally more efficient and effective, particularly in hot weather, and do not have to be leveled like a traditional RV refrigerator. 

The benefits are being appreciated by more folks all the time, and in the off-grid and overland camping crowd electric fridge/freezers are seen as more rugged and vastly superior. Even the traditional RV market has noticed. My cousin recently purchased a new fifth-wheel trailer to live in (temporarily) after selling his house, and the refrigerator is 12-volt and 120-volt only, it doesn’t run on propane. There is at least one drawback and that is amperage consumption. 

Large refrigerator and freezer for an 8.5-foot truck camper. Consumes up to 5-amps 12-volt DC when running.

Additional Electrical Loads

The large-for-a-truck-camper NovaKool refrigerator with a separate freezer door in my Hallmark Flatbed consumes up to 5-amps when running, and it runs a lot during the summer months. Five amps per hour adds up quickly, pulling a chunk of the total 200 amp-hour capacity we have from two, 100-amp Battle Born lithium batteries. 

My Hallmark is well sealed, but no RV is or can be impervious to dust, they need to breath like a house. With this in mind, and because I spend much time traveling off-pavement and nearly always camp in the dirt, I run one of my roof vent fans while driving to pressurize the living space. This works impressively well to minimize dust intrusion. There is one more big electrical draw inside my camper every 24 hours. 

Although I do not fit the physical stereotype (I’m tall and slim), I use a CPAP machine to help me breathe and sleep every night. This is another substantial electrical draw, a minimum of 4-amps, even with a dedicated 12-volt cord to avoiding the inefficiencies of an inverter. Multi-day road trips with lots of driving still result in a battery charging deficit because the factory RV 7-way provides minimal amperage. The 340-Watts of solar panels help, but they are insufficient to keep the camper batteries charged due to my consumption. A small 700-Watt 2-stroke generator travels in one of the under-bed toolboxes as an emergency back up. I prefer not to use it, and it produces a mere seven amps. So how can one easily generate more electricity? 

Dead camper batteries should be old news after installing this DC charger from Wagan Tech.

Wagan Tech 40 Amp DC To DC Battery Charger

DC to DC battery chargers have been around a few years. They are popular in places like Australia, where the off-pavement backcountry travel market has historically been more robust and innovative. These devices are exactly what they sound like, taking DC amperage from the battery/alternator charging system under the hood and feeding it directly to auxiliary (RV) batteries through large wires. Sounds simple, and it is. But, they need to be hard-wired. Wagan Tech introduced their new DC to DC Battery Chargers in 2022, both a 25-amp model for $300, the $400 40-amp model that I installed. 

New Hole Required

If the auxiliary battery to be charged is on the same chassis, like inside the same engine bay, the installation is easier. If secondary batteries are in a separate RV, the wiring needs to go from the host chassis into the recipient. If the RV is a trailer that is attached and disconnected regularly, then something like an Anderson plug provides a robust connector (and something I intend to add in the future). 

With my Hallmark flatbed outfit, I directly connected new wires from the Cummins engine to the camper batteries, which required a new hole in my Hallmark. The process was not trouble free. 

Parts and Supplies Matter 

In an effort to avoid drilling a new hole, I attempted to use smaller but adequate 8-gauge gauge wires, running them alongside the existing Hallmark 7-way RV pigtail. The new positive and negative wires added too much girth to get the nut onto the knockout plate. This defeat came after hours spent running the wires from the engine bay, along the chassis, and then stuffing them next to the factory Hallamrk wiring pigtail and into the coach. 

Ran these 8-gauge wires from the engine compartment, along the camper’s 7-way plug, through the existing wiring hole, but had to start over.
There wasn’t room for additional wires, I stuffed them through the knockout plate nut anyway, but couldn’t wiggle the nut up to male end to secure the plate. See the gouged insulation? That’s how tight.

When it was obvious that drilling a new hole was required I decided to use larger 6-gauge wire, good for up to 32-feet. The finished total length was less than 20-feet so the wire will easily handle the amperage. Due to time constraints the wire was purchased from a nearby Home Depot, the trade-off being that it is not as flexible or easy to work with as ever thinker, larger welding cable. 

Home Depot didn’t have red 6-gauge so I had to take green. Shown with two 60A Maxi fuse holders.

Measure Multiple Times And Drill Once — A Nice Idea

The new hole in the driver’s side front wall needed to go below the water heater and above the propane locker, and it needed to be approximately 1-inch diameter. After measuring and making countless trips from the front wall into the camper, I was confident about the placement before drilling the pilot hole. Using my cordless right angle drill, I nailed it, but I assumed the 7/8″ hole saw I had was big enough, and I made a nice, clean hole. However, it was too small for the knockout plate bolt to slide from inside the camper, clamped on the 6-gauge wires, through the wall to the exterior to reach the knockout plate nut.  

New 7/8” hole drilled into the front of my Hallmark Camper. Measuring and drilling went well up to this point.

Back to Home Depot to buy a larger hole saw, something near 1 1/4″. As many do-it-yourself folks know, it is relatively easy to new to drill a clean new hole, but difficult (almost impossible) to cleanly make a hole slightly larger. A few times I slowly and carefully tried to get the larger hole saw started, but, of course, the saw just slid on the fiberglass. When trying gently does not work, what is the typical response? Add force. 

The Neanderthal in me came out, and I leaned on the drill to make the saw bite into the fiberglass where I wanted; this was a bad idea. The saw walked on the slippery fiberglass surface, but with increasing force it eventually dug into the exoskeleton wall, making the scar you see in the photo below. I didn’t swear much, but I was slightly displeased with myself! 

Without the benefit of a centering pilot hole, I attempted to enlarge a perfectly drilled hole and made this mess instead.

Disgusted, angry, and frustrated, there was no going back, and I still needed to enlarge the hole. My solution was what I should have done after discovering the hole was just a bit too small; I ran a half-inch bit around the circumference of the hole until it was big enough. 

Running a 1/2” bit around the circumference of the hole to make it larger should have been my first solution, not the second.

Thirty years ago this would have bothered me for weeks. I like to do clean, high-quality work. It’s covered by a plate and will never be an issue to anyone but me, and I’ve put it behind me. With the challenging part completed, it was time to finish the installation and get the Wagan Tech DC to DC Charger working. 

Pulling And Connecting 

The rest of the installation was straightforward and easy, and there were no more hiccups. I fed  the 6-gauge wire through two rubber firewall boots to provide a weather barrier, one from the camper front and one from the inside, then along the frame and into the engine compartment to the driver’s side battery. 

Had two of these stepped, rubber firewall boots leftover from a prior product (purchased after a prior drilling mistake). Stuffed the new hole with one from inside, and another from the front behind the knockout plate. Should be very weather resistant.
This knockout plate was always on the parts list, but also conceals my drilling snafu. Looks tidy and works too.

This Wagan 40-amp unit requires two 60-amp fuses, one as close to the engine bay battery as practical, and another on the Wagan charger output line near the auxiliary batteries. Bolt-down fuses are recommended because they have lower resistance than blade type, which can have higher resistance and create excessive heat. However, the blade-type Maxi fuses are what I found locally, and I’m confident they’ll be sufficient.  

Blade-style 60A fuse holders are what was available locally.

With the incoming hot and ground wires from the engine connected to the Wagan charger, another small hole was drilled in the Hallmark’s battery box to run a hot lead from the charger to my two 100-amp lithium RV batteries. 

New small hole drilled into the camper’s battery box, with the hot, output line from the Wagan 40A DC to DC Charger to a positive terminal.

With the fuses inserted I had the appropriate blinking lights on the front of the Wagan DC to DC Battery Charger; one light showing it was connected to the alternator, and after changing the battery type to LifePO4, that light was on as well. The unit is capable of working with standard, gel, AGM, and lithium batteries. 

Wagan Tech’s instructions are short, simple, and easy to follow, and folks capable of doing basic wiring will likely have no problems doing this themselves. Because of the largish 6-gauge wire and connectors I used a hydraulic crimping tool, and I covered the ends with heat shrink, routed the wires as cleanly as possible, and protected them with split-loom. 

60A fuse lead connected directly to the driver’s side positive post with copper ring. Heat shrink looks good and adds protection.

Mounting Options 

The Wagan charger is designed for a variety of installation environments, including chassis rail, engine bay, interior cabin, etc. The unit has been designed to work in vibrating, wet, dusty and muddy environments, and can withstand temperatures of up to 176°F, so it can be installed in the engine bay. However, to get better charging efficiency, mounting the charger away from high-temperature parts is preferred. 

I simply stuck it to the bottom galley shelf with mounting tape, between the propane locker and battery box. I may add screws later if this is the charger’s permanent home, but it’s not going anywhere on this flat surface. 

Flashing green lights indicate the Wagan Tech DC Charger is connected to the alternator and is feeding LiFePO4 batteries. Simply stuck to a shelf inside a galley cabinet with mounting tape.

Wagan Tech DC Charger Works  

Using more amperage than is being generated during long road trips should be a thing of the past. We’re unlikely to need a generator unless we want to run our air conditioner, in which case we would tote our larger Honda 2000. 

Pumping a massive 40 amps per hour into the Hallmark’s lithium batteries means it takes little driving to fill them; every time we make camp the batteries will probably be full. Even if the lithiums were completely drained we could replenish all 200 amps in five hours! 

Our initial adventures with Wagan DC to DC 40-amp Charger installed were extremely encouraging, the camper batteries were full whenever we stopped, and the voltage was high, as if we’d been connected to shore-power.

The Cummins is a large and expensive generator, but because we are already traveling, delivering essentially free electricity from our alternator to the camper batteries is a game-changer. Why did we wait so long to add something like Wagan’s 40A DC to DC Battery Charger? 

Drive diesel and tell ‘em you saw it in the TDR! (A version of this article was previously published in the Turbo Diesel Register magazine.) 

Tell ’em you saw it on RoadTraveler.net

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Wagan Tech: wagan.com