Trucks, Tech, Reviews, ADV Travel
After installing TUFTRUCK front coil springs the caster and camber were still great. Toe needed adjustment. If you want your truck to drive well and your tires to last as long as possible, make sure alignment settings are optimal.
James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler. All Rights Reserved
Resource: TUFTRUCK
Are 20 inch wheels and tires better for handling heavy loads? Is the firmer ride on rough surfaces (both paved and not) worth the additional lateral stability? How about for all-around, dual-sport, and overland uses? I’ve never run 20 inch wheels before, preferring the proven off-highway formula of less wheel and more tire sidewall.
About a week ago I bought a used set of stock Dodge/Ram 20 inch wheels and tires, and have been driving on the worn factory tires to establish a 20 inch baseline on my heavy camper truck.
Tires and wheels at the end of this video are: Toyo C/T 35×12.50R17 on Ram forged aluminum (WFV) Power Wagon Wheels, Toyo R/T 285/75R18 on Ram Forged aluminum (WBJ) Big Horn wheels, Firestone 285/60R20 on Ram (WF3) black painted, aluminum, Black Appearance Group wheels.
Tell ‘em you saw it on RoadTraveler.net.
James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler. All Rights Reserved
The TTC-1224 springs are for late-model, Dodge Ram/Cummins trucks.
TUFTRUCK TTC-1224 front coil compared to a factory spring.
James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler. All Rights Reserved
Resource: TUFTRUCK
Question:
“I have a question involving the TPMS setting on my truck… I need to change the threshold on it; I have taken it to a dealer but they don’t want to do it.”
Answer:
As many late model Dodge Ram 2500 truck owners have discovered, Ram Trucks eliminated the light-load TPMS driver-selectable feature after 2012, and began requiring maximum pressures in the tires regardless of the load to keep the TPMS light off.
That is fine if you are someone who uses your heavy-duty pickup to haul or pull big loads most of the time (the exception), but asinine if you are one of the many who moves big weight infrequently. Maximum pressure is required for safe operation with truly maximum loads, however is not required, and is actually detrimental, for moderate or minimum loads. The recommended and safe maximum pressure is also dependent on the specific tire size, rating, and construction. Tire and Rim Association load inflation charts exist for a reason.
Requiring the maximum PSI (or near max.) for both axles, particularly the rear, when loads are light is ridiculously idiotic and negatively impacts handling, traction, tire wear, and ride quality… but those things seem not to matter any longer; avoiding liability from irresponsible drivers is likely paramount.
My preference for the standard G56, 6-speed manual transmission (lower engine power rating, and discontinued for 2019) behind my Cummins Diesel 6.7L engines means that both of my Ram 2500 trucks—a 2014 crew cab and a 2017 regular cab—are essentially the same as a 3500. The obvious exception being that late-model 2500s have rear coil springs instead of rear leaf springs. However, there is a TPMS system difference as well.
For those that don’t want to run maximum tire pressure with minimum loads, a strong argument can be made to choose a Ram 3500 over a 2500, because the 3500 TPMS system is informational, not a nagging nanny, and allows using lower pressures without a TPMS idiot light. At least that was how the 3500s pickups worked up to 2018, I don’t know how the 2019 or 2020 models function.
James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler All Rights Reserved
The factory rear coils on a Fourth Generation Dodge Ram Cummins 2500 are super easy to chnage. I removed them and added TUFTRUCK TTC-1225 heavy-duty replacement rear coil springs. Part one
James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler All Rights Reserved
Resource: TUFTRUCK
Our 2001 Ford 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel engine has been modified, mostly for better efficiency, with new injectors, fuel and oil pump upgrades, intake and exhaust mods, and a tuner. Exhaust gas temperature (EGT) is not currently a problem. The truck has a 6-speed manual transmission, with an aftermarket South Bend Clutch. We have a Four Wheel Campers popup slide-in, and sometimes tow a trailer through mountainous terrain. The truck runs great, we’re just trying to add a bit more power while remaining practical. Would you upgrade the turbo or change from the original 3.73:1 gears to a lower 4.10:1 ratio?
Do you know how much power/torque you are making? What is the gross weight of your 2001 Ford Super Duty and Four Wheel Camper loaded for most trips? How much weight and wind load does your trailer add?
Sounds like a turbo could complement your previous mods if you are needing more air, but if the fuel is burning well and completely it might be unnecessary. How many miles on your current turbo? Turbo lifespan may be a consideration?
Lower gearing multiplies torque. I’m a fan of lower gearing in general, particularly on gasoline-powered rigs, but moving from 3.73:1 to 4.10:1 gears is not a huge change for the cost of the surgery. Only you can determine if the added performance will be worthwhile. You will likely lose some fuel economy with lower gears.
If overall gearing is too low—as was the case with my ’96 F-350 with factory 4.10:1 gears, only 33” tires, and a 0.77:1 top cog—then overdrive may be required to maintain comfortable highway rpm when transmission sympathy would dictate using direct. However, that may not be a concern with your setup.
Is the top ratio of your ZF-S6 tranny 0.72:1? If so, that’s rather tall for a manual gearbox, and you probably have plenty of overdrive combined with 35” tall tires, depending on your highway speeds. Spending some time in 5th/direct at higher road speeds with your current gearing, as well as playing with some online gearing calculators, should be informative.
Do you currently downshift out of overdrive when climbing big hills? If so, is direct/5th enough for most grades unless the road requires lower speeds? Don’t be overly hesitant to grab a lower gear and spin the engine a little faster (while keeping an eye on the gauges), which reduces the load on the tranny and clutch. You might have all the lower gearing you need at your fingertips with your transmission’s underdrive gears. Unless you are wanting to avoid downshifting, are using all the power you already have, and/or would like to accelerate more quickly.
It’s worth noting that making more torque and power with a turbodiesel engine is generally much easier, less expensive, and less invasive than with gasoline-powered platforms. Lower gearing for gas trucks can provide a very satisfying boost in felt torque and acceleration compared to similar money spent on engine modifications. I’ve chosen to add lower, 4.88:1 gears to three gas engine rigs, one Jeep and two Toyotas, but have yet to re-gear a diesel truck.
James Langan
Copyright James Langan/RoadTraveler All Rights Reserved
Flatbed camper truck suspension tinkering and changes are not risk free, and I like to say that often “modifications lead to modifications.” Followup mods might be desirable upgrades, or unwelcome consequences.
Application specifics matter. Assuming that standard tweaks which work well on the typical unloaded/lightly-loaded truck are also good for a much heavier outfit, are often naïve.
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